This shows the original wheels/tires and some of the rot up front.
Whatever the question, caulk seemed to be the answer. Note the hole where the awning support attached. This was likely one of the main water entry points as water runs off the awning gutter and right over the bracket mount.
Hard to tell, but this is the lower front looking inside. Note that all the wood rotted away under the aluminum skin.
Pulling the contact paper ended up pulling down part of the ceiling...
Here you can see a lot of the rot. Most of the existing lateral studs ended up being rotted in the corners. Everything from just above the window down was replaced as well as the corner pieces and some of the lower side pieces (plus the whole floor)
Ditto
On this you can somewhat see the floor and pan damage. Front aluminum skin did not match the rest of the coach - so someone knew about the leak and either ignored it or made it worse.
hey love your blog!
ReplyDeletequestion I am looking at buying a 74 coachman you say yours weighs 3200 she says this one is 1200 how can that be? I need to find out the weight I tried nada but only goes back to 1975 how can I find out for sure? I want to pull with an explorer that can pull 5000 and I know this TT will need to be repaired also.
Hi Mz.Ann,
ReplyDeleteI don't get notices of comments, so I didn't see this one back when you posted it. Sorry.
Anyhow, I don't know any way to know for certain other than weighing it.
You may want to check the title as it should state the "official" weight, unless it was mistyped somewhere along the way.
There's a great community on www.rv.net that may have answers. The generally accepted practice is to add 1000lbs to the trailer weight to estimate what your stuff will weigh including the holding tanks.
Good luck!
Christopher, Wow, it's really nice seeing what you have done to your rig as i am about to embark on the same adventure with the same trailer with similare issues.
ReplyDeleteQuestion for you please:
; what did you use to seal the roof as well as other holes and cracks in the sides, around lights, seams, corners, etc?? Where do you get this type of sealant?
My door doesnt have a gasget and it is quite sloppy so i think this is where one of my water issues comes from. do you have a picture of the door gasget any where posted? Would you know whare i could get some gasgeting for this?
Thanks, your a big inspiration!
Huntah,
ReplyDeleteI used something called Eternabond for sealing everything. It's pricey, difficult to work with, and often hard to get a nice finish, but it is supposed to last for decades. Got it from www.bestmaterials.com. I used that between any surfaces that bolted together (windows, roof trim, vent flanges etc.) and used Eternabond tape to fix holes in the roof and also to cover up flanges.
Where caulking was the only option (the entry door must be removed to take the refrigerator out - Eternabond is essentially permanent), I used Proflex caulk, which is pretty commonly available. Also hard to work with (no water soluble) but supposedly durable.
I don't have a pic of the door gasket, but I'll try to take one. However, what was originally on ours was some sort of foam that had deteriorated to nothing. I got it off with a scraper and solvent, then used a brown rubbery gasket strip from Home Depot in its place. Seems to have worked well so far.
Good luck and thanks for the kind words.
- Chris