I don't have a lot of time to write this morning, but I'll throw up some pics and will try to comment later
Windows all in. Repaired front awning attached. Running lights installed.
White square towards the bottom front is for the cargo door. I have the door part rebuilt from scratch and need to mount it in its frame and clean up the flange.
Took the wheels off for access - you can't see it, but the "body" is now securely bolted to the chassis for the first time since we bought it.
Also, the wheel wells are coated with truck bed liner for undercoating after being sealed against the frame and body where necessary. Left the wheels off as I want to do one more check of the brake/bearing adjustment.
Just won an ebay auction - miraculously found the exact tail light needed to replace the broken one - correct side with the clear window for lighting the license plate. Now I don't have to try and retrofit another, or patch the old one.
You can see the sloped part of the rear camper where the tail lights attach (hole covered with metal foil tape). We have a plastic "wedge" that goes behind the actual tail light that matches the tail light profile (an elipse with the sides cut off) There is only one new tail light available that I found that has wedge adapters to bring the light surface vertical and it is rectangular. We may have to go with them down the road if we break one of our lenses as ours aren't made anymore and they're near impossible to find. I found references on the web to people searching for them in vain going back to 2001. Luckily, the ebay seller didn't list the right part number off the light in the auction, or more people might have found it and bid.
Large white squqre in front of the wheel well is where the water heater goes. Our old one (propane only with pilot) had a pinhole leak in the tank that I didn't notice until I was reassembling it after completely rebuilding it (cleaning, paint, new fittings, etc.). Got a decent deal on a new combination gas/electric with direct spark ignition. Just flick a switch and choose which method of heating.
Best of both worlds and safer.
Between that and the new furnace with DSI, the only pilot will be in the stove/oven and the fridge (which has the burner outside the coach and has a p/e igniter). Piezo-electric igniters for the stove are very inexpensive. Oven is going to have to stay with a pilot, unfortunately. May put in a p/e ignitor so we don't have to keep matches around and risk dropping one on the new floor and melting it.
The big piece of pink insulation and metal door behind it are what I use to cover the entry door, under the tarp, when I expect rain.
As of this writing, I have the floor covered with exterior luan plywood underlayment in preparation for the vinyl floor. Here are some shots of that work in progress.
Front of trailer is to the right. Brown boxes on floor are wheel wells. Jennifer cut the insulation for the front wall and installed it.
Plywood (coated with spar varnish) floor is on right. New luan subfloor fitted on left.

Shot from the front back.
Shot from the front back.
The black tank vent is on the left, next to the pliers. Pink blocks of insulation hold up the drain for the bath sink and shower (shower trap is sunken into the floor). Where it elbows between the shower drain and the wheel well is where it drops into the grey tank.
Hole in the floor is for the toilet. I'm adding a 1 1/2 inch offset flange and raising it up about 4", which should give me more room in the very cramped bath and still let the toilet clear the drain line that runs behind it. I would also like to run a duct along the drain line to heat the back of the trailer and the bath as the new furnace is set up for ducted operation.
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